photo by Loudog99 |
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pearow |
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very nice pictoral Andy-p-
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Stonefly |
Fighting butt | ||
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I've been building my own rods since 1979 and using ferrules to build a fighting butt is one of the best ideas I have ever come across.You could use a
second ferrule to make a butt plug when you don't want to use the extension.Now I want to try this myself.I just fitted a fighting butt in my new (old)
Fenwick. I wish I had read about this first.
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OLD YANKEE |
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Hello
Glad the pictorial is helping ! Helping is really what it's all about for me regardless of any baneful rumors to the contrary. The use of ferrules for extensions is not something new people have been incorporating them into rod designs for quite a while pre fiberglass. My method may not be the preferred method all I know is it works for me and they stand up to abuse. I actually did one for a guy that was a 3' extension and that rod was a fly/ Surf with the extension the rod was a light line surf caster without a fly rod. Your reference to 1979 brought this to mind so I will share. That was when I lived on Fishers Island back in 79. That rod started the madness as the guy showed it off to all his buddy's and the next thing I knew the kitchen was full of rods needing repairs and alterations. Soon after this old timer showed up at my door he asked "are you the kid that fixes fishing poles" my answer well yes very uncertainly. "Good come on out to my car he replied", In the driveway was this whale of a rusted out/ green Buick station wagon,my eyes almost popped out of my head, the car was full of rods, boxes of guides,ferrules,cork,tools,gadgets, thread rolling out on the ground I was beside myself,the guy said "you gonna just stand there or are you going to unload it" my voice crackled sir I can't afford this "who said anything about money kid just unload it before I change my mind" he replied. Well Thank you sir "Thank you don't thank me kid you're doing me the favor" he replied. So I start bringing stuff in the house he's tossing rods and blanks on the lawn in a pile,he's unloading the car in the driveway faster than I can bring it in the house.I went in with a box and when I came out he was gone. I didn't even get his name. So I asked around and found out who he was and where he lived he didn't have a phone. The next time my wife was baking I brought him a plate of cookies. I Knocked at his door no answer I walked around to the kitchen door and knocked no answer so I left the plate by the door. As I am walking around the house he came to the window "what do you want" I told him I brought him some cookies as a token of my appreciation for all the fishing pole repair stuff.re replied " leave Um I don't want nobody cumin round here pesterin me !"" That"s why I dumped all that junk in ya door yaard " Riding my bicycle home was when I decided on the Name Old Yankee and it stuck. 30 years later I understand the Old Yankee better and one day in the future I will show up on some unsuspecting young whipper snappers door and pass on the legacy. Tight Lines and Passed On Loops Andy M
Last Edited By: OLD YANKEE
10/29/09 07:13:49.
Edited 1 times.
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Loudog99 |
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Damn Andy- that is an awesome story. Love that sort of stuff.
Lou |
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taniwha2 |
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That is a classic Andy. I choose to focus on the handing down of the tradition rather than leap to conclusions about what a lifetime of rodbuilding might do to
you!
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flyfishing4goldentrout |
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Great string Andy, I really like your concept of grooving your male spigot to get better epoxy bond between the spigot and glass walls, frankly Im going ot
incorperate it in my current and future builds, that is an awsome tip. Thank you.
Richard |
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Andymanyankee |
Installment 6 | ||
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Hello
Richard I am sure you could teach me a few new tricks as well thanks for your endorsement of sorts . Before I continue and add more photo's I want to point out a few things Please look back and see the photo of the tips side by side with the thread removed. You will see a considerable amount of thread finish residue,I hear all the time that people prefer Varnish over Epoxy for a number of reasons. This thread has remained very cordial so we will not open that can of worms. I would like to point this out however the varnish residue is not easy to clean up,more difficult than epoxy in my experience ,with epoxy a little heat with the hair dyer and my thumb nail and it's clean, a couple of wipes with denatured alcohol all good. With varnish you must remove the residue with acetone and in many cases sand the area before you re wrap. Many people say why bother just wrap over it. I always clean the blank completely it makes the new thread lay correctly for one, in addition you need to inspect the blank at the area of the old guide foot to make sure the blank has not worn under the old guide over time. This is very very important and you never hear anyone talk about this at least I never have. This is something that Bill Tucker taught me and the information was priceless because over the years and many guide replacements have required blank repair under the foot of the old guide especially if the guide being replaced was broken or bent. Now look very close at the picture one of the tips has a hairline crack from the old guide foot that I needed to address. I was going to leave this out and only share it with my class. But thanks to Richard and others whom have been making rods for longer than I or there about have pointed out they are learning new things from this thread so I decide to give up another trade secret and not just a hint as I often do. The reason for the blue tape is to define the old witness areas so I could clean and inspect them ,I also use an old fish tank air pump and insert it in the female end of the blank with tape for a seal and run my wet finger over the guide foot areas looking for air leaks. Another old Bill Tucker trick some blanks are more porous than others but this works on most of them. When I find a breach I use my magnifying glass and fill the crack or hole in some cases with crazy glue. Sometimes several times until I get no leaks some may say this is unnecessary that's fine do it your way. Then I coat the old wrap areas with 2 or 3 coats of permagloss I allow it 3 days to dry before any wrapping is done all very important prep work at least for me that is. With this rod only one tip had hairline crack issues the worse of the 2 and that was the tip we decide would get my Infused Flex Enhancement as an insurance policy. You see my process has other attributes not all are divulged even yet. So on that note I will add more photo's to the thread the first photo is the female ferrule after trimming notice the white thread it's fiberglass thread something new for me in the past I used silk for a base wrap on repaired/trimmed glass ferrules. This wrap is then epoxied, turned as you would finish regular wraps, then after the finish has fully cured ,wrapped with your finish thread as usual. Tight Lines and System 10 Loops Andy M
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"FISH AND VISITORS STINK AFTER 3 DAYS" THE GUY THAT SAID MONEY CAN'T BUY YOU HAPPINESS NEVER BOUGHT A FLY ROD FROM ME ! "http://OLD-YANKEE.u.yuku.com/?referredby=OL |
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flyfishing4goldentrout |
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Hi Andy, Ive used some of that fiberglass thread for repairs too, at the ferrule for a first wrap for exactly the same reasons, it works great with a smooth
Epoxy coat before you wrap it in. Your idea about the male spigot is a really sound one I will be using it from now on. As to damage under the guides. Yes, far
to many rods have foot damage once you strip the rod for real inspection. Often unless the rod has sentimental value or is a valuable collectable, its tomato
stake time. After I left Conolon and after Garcia took over, they were an early mfg to give unconditional warrantees. Many many rods came back from their
higher grade warranteed rods with failures from guide feet digging into and opening holes or splits into the blank. Their rods at the time were mostly 7-8wts
and heavier. In any case their solution was to underwrap their Warranteed rods, then keep the guide feet wide and flat for the final wrap in. That almost
entirely ended the failures at the guides. Kind of overkill on their 6wt rods, but very cost effective compared to custom grinding the guide feet and other
then available fixes. It does leave a good question here though, what final shape do you prefer for stripper and snake feet? most as purchased are simple
stampings and need to be "fitted". I use a stationary wheel to thin the top side, take some of that wide flat foot off then stone then smooth but
without a sharp edge to dig into the glass myself, its time consumming but looks nice and the thread flows up onto the foot evenly and smoothly. For Black
guides, once "fitted" I use a simple Black felt permanent marker to hide the white exposed steel of my work before I wrap them in. btw the foot gets
a couple of coats of color preserver to seal it, don't want that black to come out on a clear silk wrap.
Frankly its a big hassle to undertake fitting a sleave for damage under a guide, Ive done it, for rods with sentimental value, or in the case of one or two I wanted for myself, but such work is often not cost effective for a lessor value rod. As we speak of little extra's I like the way some of our premier rod makes like Ferdinard Claudio used to double back on the guide wrap just over the foot. Ive borrowed that touch on a few heavy rods, as well with underwraps and then sometimes using the Rich Forhan Locking Wrap on my Stripping guides. Ive never seen any of those rods come back, and have used those same styles on some pretty heavy Tuna rods for conventional and custom spinning reel rods. While I personally dont feel that underwraps are required on rods under 5wt they are a nice touch. Plus they do help protect the glass under the underwrap well. I think your restoration of this particular rod is much like a friend of mines work on vintage cars, once finished its like the original but frankly fare better, in fit and finish and style, thanks for sharing this string. Richard |
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taniwha2 |
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Very new to all this but for no better reason than it seemed to me a good idea, once shaped/deburred I have taken to affixing masking tape to the underside of
guide feet (trimmed to an exact fit) before wrapping (downside I suppose it slightly increases the step up when wrapping onto the guide foot).
And I try to wrap at as light a tension as will hold - partly not to dig into the blank, but mainly as I tend to need a good hour or three of twiddling to get the wrapped guides aligned both straight and to spine (even though they were taped that way prior to wrapping....). This final tweaking I find a major PITA and much trickier if wrapped tight. |
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OLD YANKEE |
Installment 6 1/2 | ||
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Hello
Now that Richard has offered his insights he will need to purchase a round trip ticket to Connecticut to be my guest instructor to show the class first hand his wrapping techniques. I strongly disagree that a pin hole under a old guide foot on a blank merits the blank becoming a tomato stake, the reason we are rod smiths is to repair these types of problems. If that were the case the tomato stake business would be in a sharp decline. Locking thread over wraps are great and I use them but when the need arises for that type of insurance I usually just double wrap or go to larger thread. As far as guide foot preparations go I spend a great amount of time preparing guide feet I remove all corners and I don't like to have any points or sharp edges.with black I blue them after I have ground them with gun bluing,I have used a sharpie but that adds the need to seal them afterwords.some permanent black magic markers will not bleed you should test them before wrapping. The manufacturer of the guide will make a difference of how much prep work needs to be done before mounting the guides as well some manufactures offer more than one grade with the higher grade already prepped in the case of this particular remake we chose R.E.C. RSNX Heavy Duty Snake Guides and the amount of prep work was very minimal. The Mlidrum Stripping Guides with Nickel Silver Frames and Carboloy Rings required a bit of prep but not much. Regardless of the grade of the guides you choose always inspect each guide and deburr as needed. For this particular rod I personally went to R.E.C. and hand picked each component after all the rod belongs to Joe Cornwall !! I am not surprised that Conlon/Garcia had issues with guide feet wearing holes prematurely threw the blanks as I found out during my Wulff series project that thin walls and pin holes were the norm rather than the exception also I had to do some sanding to get the proper size and action. When I refer to porous blanks Conlon/Garcia is the first to come to mind. In the picture below is a Conlon/Garcia blank during my Infused Flex Enhancement Process see all of the white mushrooms that is the foam pepping out from all the pin holes in the blanks before sanding in this case. as this was one of the presentation rods I put up after the series was finished and they all got infused first.
The picture below is the Kenedy Fisher/ Scientific Anglers System 10 blank after my Infused Flex Enhancement Process note NO foam pepping out any where and this was a well used tip with guide foot hairline crack issues to boot.
The orange piece of foam is the plug, the piece of graphite is the plug ram rod that is marked to the proper location of the plug inside the blank above the ferrule, then the ram rod is used to hold the plug in place as the curing process is completed, after words the ram rod is removed and the ferrule ID is cleaned with acetone. As to inserting stints to build up under a damaged guide foot that may work, but I use stints to fine tune rod actions, stints alter action ,so for me I prefer non altering repairs such as a simple dab of crazy glue or in worse cases a little epoxy or fiberglass resin. Joe wanted to see how my infused flex worked so we added it to the problematic tip as a bonus but frankly the tip would have more than likely fine in terms of the repair without it. At any rate this thread is my pictorial that is intended for use for this winters rod building class I am giving ,if you would like to start other topics to go into things that are not a part of my rod building curriculum for this specific class by all means lets start another thread. Tight Lines and Pepping Loops Andy M
The Trick Is To Make It Look Easy
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Andymanyankee |
Installment #7 | ||
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Hello
I have let a considerable amount of time lapse since the last post in this pictorial as I figured there would be questions about my I.F.E. process and some other things I shared but I have had no questions or comments so I will continue and finish the pictorial. Recently I have been receiving many questions about my profiles and the changes I made. Yes it's true I have removed all my contact information and most if not all of the information on the profile pages. We have more than our fair share of people that need exposure here, so I have removed my stuff to make room for all the new comers. And no I will not be offering any services here. When this pictorial is finished I will not be offering any of my rod making tips and techniques here either as we have plenty of very experienced people to help you with your future rod projects as well. Tight Lines and System 10 Loops Andy M |
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OLD YANKEE |
Installment #7 | ||
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Hello
Some may wonder why I have posted this installment #7 with both my profile names the reason is I want to make sure everyone understands that I have 2 profiles and there is no confusion about that. In the future I will only post under my original profile name Andymanyankee. Tight Lines and Last of the Old Yankee Loops Andy M ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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CBarclay |
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Andy,
Thanks for posting this tutorial. I've learned a lot from you. I've had no questions because I don't know what to ask yet. I'd really like to start building/rebuilding some rods but am taking my time getting started. Thanks again, I really appreciate the time you've put into this. I like the background - okra and squash?
Chris
Saint Louis, MO |
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Andymanyankee |
Glad I Have Been Some Help | ||
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Hello Chris
I am glad to have been some help to you. It's Peppers and Squash and man were they hot the peppers that is. Your very welcome and thank you for recognizing the amount of time that goes into sharing this type of post. Tight Lines and Your Welcome Loops Andy M
Last Edited By: Andymanyankee
11/16/09 09:58:18.
Edited 1 times.
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Fly Rod D |
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Andy-
Thanks for posting. I have never built a rod, but I hope to soon. I am however a proud owner of one of your rods, so I know the quality of your craftsmanship firsthand. Thanks for taking the time to post. It takes me forever to post a picture of a silly fly I tied, so I bet this took you a while. Even though I don't really have a clue about how to build a rod, I am sure this post will help me when I decide to take on a project. Thanks again. Doug
FRD
If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there'd be a shortage of fishing poles. |
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ratfacedmcdougal |
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Hey Andy
Rod looks wonderful and probably better than new. Thanks for the entertainment with this sting of posts. RFMcD |
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Andymanyankee |
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Hello
John I am glad you are entertained and no I will not share my rod juggling routine ! LOL Tight Lines and Rat Faced Loops Andy M |
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Spencer DT |
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This post is bumming me out. Most people on this forum that haven't built a rod before are soaking in all this info, myself included. I am also one of
those who don't even know what questions to ask about this project having never built a rod before. I appreciate your efforts and wish you wouldn't
just walk away from this forum. Your perspective on rod building and your posts are a big reason this forum is so great. If you are honestly feeling like there
are enough others out there willing and passionate about teaching like you do I can tell you your wrong.
Tight Lines and Missed Loops |
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whrlpool |
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You know, gentleman, Andy has been there done that, so he's a great resource around here. On the other hand, he probably has to fish or work, hopefully in
that order, sometimes. But don't be daunted about rod building or by the further range of skills for restoration. In Andy's stuff--and a lot of the
other in this section--you are seeing great refinement and various specialty techniques. The way to think of it for starters, however, is rod ASSEMBLING. If
you can tie a fly on your tippet, you can assemble a rod that will perform acceptably just by following the basic instructions. That's the easiest way to
get started and the cost of kits is worth it just for the entertainment of doing it, including any little mistakes you make and learn from. By your second or
third rod, you could have a good shop select/match components to your blank and surprise yourself how well your job comes out.
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Andymanyankee |
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Hello
I am not going away I am just going to be less visible but you can always contact me with a question people do it all the time. No worries I am sure we have a dozen experienced people that will be glad to offer advice and are willing to share and take up where I leave off. I am not the only person that is willing and capable of helping others it happens all the time. Lots of people come to mind I would list them but I might forget someone and that could cause hard feelings. Thanks for your comments but I am just one guy, we have many people here that have far more experience than I, that's what makes this a special community not I. I was told that I am involved with most every blow up they have on this site so my passion is more of a problem to many than an attribute. One thing I will say is if you fill a room with experienced rod builders eventually a disagreement about something will surface. I was told this many years ago and didn't understand it then but I understand it all too well now. It's the passion that causes the disagreements and for me I think that is a positive thing without the passion what do you have or what can you learn. If you have a place for sharing rod making techniques and everyone agrees all the time and no one can ever say No That's Wrong or Here's A Better Way or This Is How I Do It and Why, what do you have ? When you put a group of like minded people together a think tank of sorts so that the participants can learn from one another,share with one another to solve challenges everyone faces that's a beautiful environment for learning. When rules are imposed on rod makers that inhibit the flow of ideas ,the openness, the passion,opposing points of veiw are not allowed what do you have ? The problem is people take constructive criticism personally many times rather than understand that it's meant to help not offend. Why is that ? I suspect it's the passion,the pride if you like. I truly hope my comments have not insulted anyone they are just my personal opinions. Tight Lines and Open Minded Loops Andy M |
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